Craven | |||
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— District — | |||
View of south Settle from Castlebergh | |||
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Shown within North Yorkshire | |||
Coordinates: | |||
Sovereign state | United Kingdom | ||
Constituent country | England | ||
Region | Yorkshire and the Humber | ||
Ceremonial county | North Yorkshire | ||
Founded | |||
Admin. HQ | Skipton | ||
Government | |||
• Type | Craven District Council | ||
• Leadership: | Alternative - Sec.31 | ||
• Executive: | Conservative | ||
• MPs: | Julian Smith | ||
Area | |||
• Total | 454.4 sq mi (1,177 km2) | ||
Area rank | 18th | ||
Population (2010 est.) | |||
• Total | 55,400 | ||
• Rank | Ranked 315th | ||
• Density | 121.9/sq mi (47.1/km2) | ||
Time zone | Greenwich Mean Time (UTC+0) | ||
• Summer (DST) | British Summer Time (UTC+1) | ||
Postcode | |||
ISO 3166-2 | |||
ONS code | 36UB | ||
OS grid reference | |||
NUTS 3 | |||
Ethnicity | 96.1% White 2.0% S.Asian[1] |
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Website | cravendc.gov.uk |
Craven is a local government district in North Yorkshire, England that came into being in 1974, centred on the market town of Skipton. In the changes to British local government of that year this district was formed as the merger of Skipton urban district, Settle Rural District and most of Skipton Rural District, all in the West Riding of Yorkshire. It comprises the upper reaches of Airedale, Wharfedale, Ribblesdale and Lonsdale and includes most of the Aire Gap and Craven Basin.
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Craven: “The exact extent of it we nowhere find”—Thomas Cox, 1730[2]
In recorded history Craven has been the name of this district[3] but it was never defined until 1974; its boundaries differed according to whether considering administration, taxation or religion.[4]
The name Craven may be derived from the pre-Celtic cravona, meaning stony region.[5][6] Or from the Celtic (Cumbric), related to the Welsh word craf meaning garlic.[3] In the Middle Ages, the area was known for its wild garlic.
The first datable evidence of human life in Craven is ca 9000 BC: a hunters harpoon point carved out of an antler found in Victoria Cave. Most traces of the mesolithic nomadic hunters are the flint barbs they set into shafts. Extensive finds of these microliths lie around Malham Tarn and Semerwater. Flint does not occur in the Dales, the nearest outcrop is in East Yorkshire. On higher ground microliths are found near springs at the tree line at 500 m (1,600 ft) indicating campsites close to the open hunting grounds. The valley woodlands were inhabited by deer, boar and aurochs, the higher ground was open grassland that fed herds of reindeer, elk and horse. No permanent settlements have been found of that age, hunting here was seasonal, returning to the plains in winter.[7]
After 5000BC Neolithic long-distance trade is indicated by the distribution of stone axes many of which were of hard volcanic rock with a cutting edge made by polishing. Lithic analysis can identify their quarry source. Axes found in Yorkshire originate in the central Cumbria and are found as far as eastern Yorkshire suggesting they were traded for the flint there. But most finds are in Ribblesdale and Airedale indicating that Craven was their trade route through the Pennines. Farmers permanently settled in Craven, bringing domesticated livestock and used those stone axes to clear woodlands, probably by slash-and-burn, to increase areas for grazing[7] and crops.
To collect the Danegeld in 991–1016 the Anglo-Saxons divided their territory into tax districts. The Wapentakes of Staincliffe and Ewcross covered the region we call Craven but also areas beyond it such as the Forest of Bowland in Lancashire; and Sedburgh in Cumbria to the North.[8] The Chuch was still using these areas in 16th century.
The Great Domesday Book of 1086 curiously digressed from the Wapentake districts by using the celtic Craven district instead. In the west this included Burrow, Melling, Wennington and Hornby[9] in Lonsdale, reaching further west than any later descriptions. Archives[10] show that the Melling-with-Wrayton and Hornby-with-Farleton farmlands were in the districts of Ergune (Arkholme) and Ghersinctune (Gressingham), but there was another layer of districts between those and West coast. However some[11] propose Mellinge could even mean Melling near Carnforth.
Although it suggests the length, the Domesday Book does not tell us the width of the boundaries of Craven, for in it only arable land was noted and ploughing was at that date a minor part of Craven agriculture, although cultivators had probably been reduced in numbers by the Harrying of the North. The valley bottoms are usually boggy, shady frost-hollows, with soils of glacial boulder clay very heavy to cultivate. So farms were limited to the well-drained slopes, but not too far up for that is unusable moorland. The band of useful soil in between is so full of rocks that grazing oxen was the living in Craven, with some sheep marginal.[12] Because grazing land was not tallied in the Domesday Book the full areas of the estates of the manors can only be induced,[10] for example no ploughed land at all was recorded between Cononley and Wennington.
Location[10] | Modern name[11] | Acres, approx | Hectares, approx | Taxpayer/s |
---|---|---|---|---|
Chersintone | Grassington | 360 | 150 | Gamel Bern[13] |
Freschefelt | Threshfield | 480 | 195 | Gamel Bern |
Cutnelai | Cononley | 240 | 100 | Thorkil |
Bradlei | Bradleys Both | 840 | 350 | Arnkeld, Thorkil, Gamel |
Fernehil | Farnhill | 240 | 100 | Gamel[13] |
Childeuuic | Kildwick | 240 | 100 | Arnkeld |
Esebrune | Eastburn | 270 | 120 | Gamel Bern |
Utelai | Utley | 120 | 50 | Vilts |
Chichelai | Keighley | 720 | 290 | Ulfkeld, Thole, Ravensvartr |
Wilsedene | Wilsden | 360 | 150 | Gamel Bern |
Acurde | Oakworth | 120 | 50 | Gamel Bern, Vilts |
Neuhuse | Newsholme[14] | 120 | 50 | Vilts |
Lacoc | Laycock | 240 | 100 | Ravensvartr |
Sutun | Sutton-in-Craven | 240 | 100 | Ravenkeld |
Mellinge, Hornebi, Wermigetun | Melling-with-Wrayton, Hornby-with-Farleton, Wennington | 1080 | 440 | Ulf[13] |
In de hb (in the same places as Ulf) | Melling-with-Wrayton, Hornby-with-Farleton, Wennington | 180 | 73 | Orm[13] |
Tornetun, Borch. | Thornton in Lonsdale, Burrow-with-Burrow | 720 | 290 | Orm |
The Poll Tax records list every hamlet and village, but had reverted to using the wapentake system.[15] The Wapentakes of Staincliffe and Ewcross do cover the region of Craven but also areas beyond it such as Sedburgh to the North.
Young King Richard II commanded a poll tax to pay off the debts he'd inherited from the Hundred Years' War. Its first application in 1377 was a flat rate and the second of 1379 was a sliding scale from 1 groat (4p pence) to 4 marks. But the third of 1381, 4 groats (1 shilling) and up, was applied corruptly and led to the Great Rising of 1381 and, in 1399, the House of Lancaster taking the throne from York. However the records of the 1379 tax are full of valuable statistics for we can compare the income brackets of various occupations, and the relative worth of villages.[16]
The Deanery of Craven was made close to the Wapentake of Staincliffe, and so included the following areas which are not in the modern secular district of Craven:
These valuable records also define the area by wapentakes. This tax was introduced by the government of Charles II at a time of serious fiscal emergency, and collection continued until repealed by William and Mary in 1689. Under its terms each liable householder was to pay one shilling for each hearth within their property, due twice annually at the equinoxes, Michaelmas (29 September) and Lady Day (25 March). The Yorkshire records of all three ridings are now completely transcribed, analyzed and available free online[17]
The hills and slopes of Craven are greatly involved in the history of sheep particularly in the history of wool. After 5000 BC the Neolothic farming movement introduced domesticated sheep,[7]:19 but the Roman occupation of Britain introduced advanced sheep husbandry to Britain and made wool into a national industry. Craven was made accessible by major roads from Lancaster through Ingleton and from York through Gargrave. The extent of a Roman villa farm excavated at Gargrave implies it practiced grazing on nearby moorland.[7]:39 By 1000 AD England and Spain were recognized as the pinacles of European sheep wool production. About 1200 AD scientific treatises on agricultural estate management began to circulate amongst the Cistercian monasteries in the Yorkshire dales. These indicated the way to greatest profit was to produce wool for export.[18]
“The famous monasteries under the steep, wooded banks of Yorkshire dales began the movement that in the course of four or five hundred years converted most of North England and Scotland from unused wilderness into sheep-run.”—George MaCaulay Trevelyan, 1926[18]
Fountains Abbey strongly affected Craven in upper Wharfedale, Airedale and Littondale. In 1200 the Abbey owned 15,000 sheep in various locations and traded directly with Italian merchants. On the limestone fells it held extensive sheep runs managed by granges located at valley heads to access both the moors and the rough pasture of valley sides. Many granges developed into hamlets. The Fountains’ sheep administrative centre was at Outgang Hill, Kilnsey.[7]:60 By 1320 Bolton Priory’s flock at Malham was about 2,750 and it built extensive sheep farm buildings there. Accounts show that a quarter of its cheese was sheep’s cheese, and that most of the Priory’s came from wool sales.[7]:71 It also developed fulling, sorting and grading into industries.[7]:95 Feudal Lords began to imitate monastic management methods for their own estates[18]:95 and in 1350 when the Black Death killed-off half the rent-paying farmers they had the bailiffs substitute sheep-pasture for tillage. The export of wool to the Flanders looms, and the concurrent growth of cloth manufacture in England, aided by Edward III's importation of Flemish weavers to teach his people the higher skill of the craft, made demand for all the wool that English flocks could supply.[18]:314 As the profitability of wool further increased some landowners converted all arable land into sheep pasture by evicting whole villages. Over 370 deserted medieval villages have been unearthed in Yorkshire.[19][19]:146 Henry VIII in 1539 suppressed the Monasteries and sold Littondale and the Bolton Priory's estates in lower Wharefedale and Airedale to Henry Clifford, 1st Earl of Cumberland and Lord of Skipton.[7]:61 By 1600 the wool trade was the primary source of tax revenue for Queen Elizabeth I. Britain’s success made it a major influence in the development and spread of sheep husbandry worldwide.
In more modern times the Industrial Revolution brought factory production of wool cloth to towns further down Airedale and many Craven families, made redundant by agricultural machinery, moved south to work in the worsted mills. However in 1966 the price of wool fell by 40% due to the increased popularity of synthetic fibers. Farmers complain it now costs more to shear a sheep than you can get for its wool and the result is reduced flocks. Although the tough wool of hill sheep is still used for carpet weaving, sheep breeding is now mostly for lambs to sell on for fattening for meat in low patures.[20]:25
Woodland is an important component of the landscape and are crucial to scenic beauty. The small surviving areas of ancient woodland have high biodiversity value.[21] However the Pennines are now notably lacking in trees despite archaeological evidence showing 90% was woodlands before human settlement. Palynology indicates a coincident decline in trees and increase in grasses. The dramatic shortage of natural woodlands is due to overgrazing and direct clearance for pasture.[22] Since sheep are grazers not browsers they do not affect mature trees however they devour all their seedlings. With a much narrower face than cattle they crop plants very close to the ground and with continuous grazing can overgraze land rapidly. Ancient Common Grazing rights made it impossible to actively grow trees, even for fuel, because coppicing requires enclosure to protect re-growth from sheep.[7]:94 Since 2002 The Yorkshire Dales National Park has encouraged sheep farmers to switch uplands livestock to cattle since they do not graze so intensively. Traditional breeds such as Blue Greys and Belted Galloways can survive the harsh winters and live off the rough grasses just as well a sheep.[23] Since 1968 some moorland has been afforested by the Forestry Commission.[19]:132 Since 2005 the collection of indigenous seeds and propagation by the Dales National Park produced saplings for planting schemes that began in 2010.[21]
In the 16th and 17th centuries Longhorn cattle prevailed in Craven. Good quality bulls were bought communally to improve the livestock on the common land beside each village. In the 18th century they crossbredwith Shorthorns: fully grown crossbreeds weighed 420-560 pounds. Some graziers of the Craven highlands also visited Scotland, for example Oban, Lanark and Stirling, to purchased stock to be brought down the drove roads to the cattle-rearing district. In the summer of 1745 the celebrated Mr Birtwhistle brought 20,000 head from the northernmost parts of Scotland to Great Close near Malham.[24]:53 In modern times dairy farming has predominated. After the 1970s Holstein Friesians became the most popular breed.[25]
Pollen analysis shows that the peak of arable agriculture in Craven was 320-410 AD. But outbreaks of pestilence in the 6th century and in the 7-8th century resulted in a shift away from ploughing to grazing. However the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle records the Danish Viking settlers “were engaged in ploughing and making a living for themselves.”[7]:47 Cultivation lynchet terraces and ridge-and-furrow fields of the Middle Ages are visible alongside many villages particularily in Wharfedale and Malhamdale[7]:69 and tithe records show they grew crops of oats, barley and wheat[24]:21 and in rotation, beans and peas.[7]:71 But the wool boom of the 16th century caused most arable land to be turned into pasture. In the 18th century miller’s records show they had to import wheat to grind and sell as flour[24]:21 but the farmers still grew oats for it formed the principle article of their subsistence, some made into bread and puddings[26] but mostly cooked as oatcakes.
“We were browt up on haverbreead and cheese”—Mr J Postlethwaite, 1940[24]:27
In the 18th century the national Board of Agriculture commissioned a survey of agriculture in the region with a view of improving it. This was published to the public in 1793 as General view of the Agriculture of the West Riding of Yorkshire[27] a 140-page book detailing every factor. The wide variety of soil composition resulted in tithes ranging from 6 shillings up to 3 pounds per acre and farms leasing from 50 to 500 pounds per year. It details by parish quantities of cattle and crop produced, their rotation and market value. The report recommended more wheat and turnips; more sheep and of better breed; criticized poor drainage and design of farm buildings and taught principles of farm management.
Average wages then paid to employees were 12 pounds per annum with victuals and drink; and to temporary labourers 2 shillings and sixpence per day with beer. Hours of work in winter were “dawn till dark” and in harvest time “six till six, with one hour for dinner and another for drinking”. The author shows concern for their virtue and welfare.
Craven is administered by the Craven District Council which is made up of 30 councillors who represent the 19 wards that make up the district.[28]
For representation on North Yorkshire County Council Craven is divided into seven divisions and returns one councillor per division.[29]
On a national level Craven forms part of the Skipton and Ripon constituency which is currently represented by the Conservative Member of Parliament Julian Smith.
Craven District Council allies with other organizations:[30]
The largest town in Craven is Skipton. Other major population centres in the region include High Bentham, Settle, Grassington. Due to expansion the villages of Sutton-in-Craven, Cross Hills and Glusburn now make one an urban conglomerate.
In the 1974 government reorganization of the shire districts some towns were lost to Lancashire but because of cultural history their area is known as West Craven. These are Barnoldswick, Earby, Sough, Kelbrook, Salterforth and Bracewell and Brogden.
The Anglican Church Archdeaconry 542 is named Craven and has four Deaneries: Ewecross, Bowland, Skipton and South Craven.[37] Ecclesiastic Craven is much larger than the civic District of Craven; in particular the north of Ewecross is in Cumbria county, the lower part of South Craven is in West Yorkshire, and south-west Bowland is in Lancashire county.
The Church of England is considering charging their boundary of Bowland to match that of civic Lancashire, but this is unlikely to happen before July 2013.[38]
The Deanery of South Craven comprises 20 parishes: Cononley, Cowling, Cross Roads cum Lees, Cullingworth, Denholme, East Morton, Harden, Haworth, Ingrow, Kilkdwick, Newsholme, Oakworth, Oxenhope, Riddlesden, Sildsden, Steeton with Eastburn, Sutton-in-craven, Thwaites Brow, Utley, Wilsden. Civic boundaries further contrast in that only Bradley, Cowling, Kilkdwick and Sutton-in-craven are in North Yorkshire, the rest are in West Yorkshire.
Craven comprises the upper reaches of Airedale, Wharfedale, Ribblesdale and the river Wenning of Lonsdale.
Craven was of great topographic significance for the historic North of England for it provides a low-altitude pass through "the backbone of England".[16] It was the Pennine transport corridor from Cumbria and Strathclyde to the Vale of York. Even Neolithic long-distance trade is proved by many finds of stone axes from central Cumbria.[7]
To the route’s north stand limestone mountains of up to 736 m (2,415 ft) above mean sea level[39] and to its south lie bleak sandstone moors, that above 275 m (902 ft) grow little but bracken.[40]
To walk the Pennine moors is "potentially dangerous if the weather is bad and you are ill equipped. If the cloud comes down you will need both a compass and a knowledge of how to use it."—Jim Jarratt, 2006[41]
The treeless moorland gives no shelter from storms. Even modern Pennine transport can find it a formidable barrier for roads can be blocked by snow for several days. But the Craven route is a welcoming sheltered passageway, and also inhabited along its length.
The railway-builders sought the lowest course through the valleys of Craven and found that to be 166 m (545 ft) near Giggleswick scar at , and 160 m (525 ft) just East of Hellifield at a point labeled Aire Gap on maps.[42]
The nearest alternative pass through the Pennines is Stainmore Gap (Eden-Tees)[43] to the North, but that is not in Craven’s league for it climbs to 409 m (1,342 ft)[39] and its climate is classed as sub-arctic in places.[44] The nearest low-level routes across the country are the 228 m (748 ft) Tyne Gap over 100 km (62 mi) to the north, or the Midlands just as far to the south.[39]
As the Ice age glacial sheets retreated from Craven ca 11,500 BC plants returned to the bare earth and archaeological palynology can identify their species. The first trees to settle were willow, birch and juniper, followed later by alder and pine. By 6500 BC temperatures were warmer and woodlands covered 90% of the dales with mostly pine, elm, lime and oak. On the limestone soils the oak was slower to colonize and pine and birch predominated. Around 3000 BC a noticeable decline in tree pollen indicates that neolithic farmers were clearing woodland to increase grazing for domestic livestock, and studies at Linton Mires and Eshton Tarn find an increase in grassland species in Craven.[7]
On poorly drained impermeable areas of millstone grit, shale or clays the topsoil gets waterlogged in Winter and Spring. Here tree suppression combined with the heavier rainfall results in blanket bog up to 2 m (7 ft) thick. The erosion of peat ca 2010 still exposes stumps of ancient trees.[7]
“In digging it away they frequently find vast fir trees, perfectly sound, and some oaks…”—Arthur Young, 1771[45]
Vegetation in the Pennines is adapted to subarctic climates, but altitude and acidity are also factors. For example on Sutton Moor the millstone grit’s topsoil below 275 m (902 ft) has a soil ph that is almost neutral, ph 6 to 7, and so grows good grazing. But above 275 m (902 ft) it is acidic, ph 2 to 4, and so can grow only bracken, heather, sphagnum, and coarse grasses[40] such as cottongrass, purple moor grass and heath rush.[20] Dressing it with lime produces better quality grass for sheep grazing - such is named marginal upland grazing.[40] This points to the advantage of Pastoral farming near Craven Fault where the lime is so available.
Sector | Quantity | % |
---|---|---|
Manufacturing | 213 | 7.2 |
Construction | 369 | 12.5 |
Distribution, Hotels and Restaurants | 972 | 32.8 |
Transport and Communications | 157 | 5.3 |
Banking, Finance and Insurance | 760 | 25.6 |
Public Admin, Education and Health | 271 | 9.1 |
Other | 221 | 7.5 |
Economic forecasts for 2010 show that the Craven District's diverse economy, measured in Gross Value Added (GVA), is worth £1.14 billion ($1.87 billion) Since 1998 the value of the District’s economy has grown by 45%. Craven hosts a variety of small businesses - 72% employ less than four people. Businesses that employ above 50 employees (2.2%) are mostly in the south of the District.
The business of agriculture revolves around the Market towns of Craven:
Market town | Street market | Farmers | Crops auction | Cattle auction | Other livestock |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Bentham | Wed | 1st Sat | - | Wed: primestock[49] | 1st Tues: dairy, sheep, seasonals |
Ingleton | Fri | inactive | - | - | - |
Settle | Tues | 2nd Sun | - | - | - |
Gisburn[50] | - | - | Thur: hay and straw | Thur: prime, dairy, sheep[49] | 1st and 3rd Sat: breeding, store |
Grassington | inactive | 3rd Sun | inactive | inactive | inactive |
Skipton | Mon Wed Fri Sat | 1st Sat | Mon: crops and produce | Mon: prime, dairy, sheep[51] | 1st and 3rd Wed : store, pedigree |
AHDB, the national Agriculture and Horticulture Development Board,[52] issues regional reports with constant updates on agricultural output:
Two thirds of Craven lie within the Yorkshire Dales National Park where traditional landscape preservation is required[30][56]
Turbidite Sandstone (Millstone Grit) is quarried along the North Craven Fault line where the Askrig block outcrops above Ingleton and Settle. Cove and Goredale Limestones are also quarried in those areas; and near Grassington.[57]
Occupation | % |
---|---|
Sales and customer service | 6 |
Personnel services | 7 |
Process: Plant | 8 |
Administration | 10 |
Elementary | 12 |
Professional occupations | 12 |
Associate Professionals | 12 |
Skilled Trades | 16 |
Managers and senior officials | 17 |
Sector | Quantity | % |
---|---|---|
Agriculture | 362 | 1.4 |
Manufacturing | 2,602 | 9.8 |
Construction | 1,759 | 6.6 |
Distribution, Hotels and Restaurants | 7,383 | 27.8 |
Transport and Communications | 781 | 2.9 |
Banking, Finance and Insurance | 7,522 | 28.3 |
Public Administration, Education and Health | 5,357 | 20.1 |
Other | 825 | 3.1 |
In 2008 there were 26,591 employed; 22% were self-employed. In 2010 each Full Time Equivalent (FTE) employee contributed £40,311 to the District’s economy, representing an increase in productivity of 21.9% since 1998; an annual increase of 1.8%. The value of output per capita (estimated to be £19,703) has increased by 32% since 1998.[47]
The proportion of the working age population with high levels educational attainment is above the national average, and 40% of the District’s residents have managerial and professional occupations. Also Lantra's Landskills offers workshops in efficiency and profitability in agriculture, horticulture and forestry with up to 70% funding. Caven is covered in Farm Business Support and Development and Yorkshire Rural Training Network.[59] Yet from 2004 to 2009 there was generally a decline in attainment of about 12% and the number of people in the District with no qualifications increased by 1.8%. Such people have reduced employment options, however Craven College[60] in Skipton is one of the largest Further Education Colleges in North Yorkshire and provides an outreach service to rural areas.[30]
Craven’s central Museum in Skipton has obtained funding to deliver various projects:
Following the success of a Renaissance Partnerships[61] funding application to MLA Museums Libraries and Archives Craven Museum has helped both the Museum of North Craven Life in Settle[62] and the Upper Wharfedale Folk Museum in Grassington.[30][63]
Craven District supports arts through music, theatre, dance, literature, visual arts and festivals. Funding from the Arts Council England (Yorkshire) alone totaled £435,811 between 2006 and 2009. Grants from other sources including the Gulbenkian Fund and Esme Fairburn Trust totaling well over an additional £160,000.[30] A new art gallery was opened in 2005 at Craven Museum and Gallery, Skipton.
Craven Council opened the Craven Pool and Fitness Centre in 2003 and extended it in 2007. The Centre reached the semi-finals in the Best Semi Best Sports Project category of The National Lottery Awards. The Craven Active Sports Network develops opportunities for participation in sport and active recreation, sourcing funding for a variety of projects throughout the District, totaling over £14.5 million in 2001-2011. The National Sport Unlimited Scheme, delivering a programme of sporting activity to 1205 young people and teenagers, brought in £45,000 of external funding.[30]
William Craven of Appletreewick, born in a modest family, went to London and rose rapidly to became its Lord Mayor. He is sometimes referred to as "Aptrick's Dick Whittington" suggesting the story of Dick Whittington is based on his life.[64] William was born c1518 in Appletreewick near Skipton. At age 14 was sent to London to apprentice to a Watling Street Tailor. He qualified in 1569 and made such a fine impression that in 1600 he was made Alderman of Bishopgate; in 1601 he was chosen Lord Mayor of London and in 1603 was knighted by James I. He made benefactions to Craven Yorkshire, founding the school in Burnsall.[65]
William’s son John founded the famous Craven Scholarships at Oxford and Cambridge Universities and in 1647 left many large charitable bequests to North Yorkshire towns including Burnsall and Skipton in Craven.
After 1660 William’s first son William Craven was made the first Earl of Craven by Charles II. However that title was eponyminous for the estate was Uffington Berkshire; he was in no sense a lord of Craven Yorkshire.
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